Mountaineering in Rocky Mountain National Park

by Bob Koropp

by Jesse Speer

by Ruth Clinton

The following ten climbs sample the best the Park has to offer and use all the techniques of modern mountaineering-some climb snow, some ice, some rock, and some all of the above. This is a tiny portion of the climbing available-only the Tetons in terms of the quality of alpine climbing rival Rocky Mountain National Park. I've tried to include mostly moderate climbs. By the time you are ready to climb The Joker (5.12c) on the Diamond or Vanquished (M6, AI 5) on Powell, you probably do not need this list. If you have any questions about the routes or the present conditions, please feel free to call or drop in at the Colorado Mountain School (970-586-5758). We are also the only service legally authorized to guide in Rocky Mountain National Park; we'd love to take you up any of these climbs. The following is not intended as a guidebook. It does not describe the climbs pitch by pitch, nor does it exactly specify that such and such a climb starts 15 feet left of the spruce. It is more a listing of some of our more exceptional climbs and includes some of the qualities that make them unique. Both Bernard Gillet's Rocky Mountain National Park:The Climber's Guide and Richard Rossiter's Rock Climbing Rocky Mountain National Park: The Crag Areas and Classic Rock Climbs No. 08 The Diamond of Longs Peak, Rock Mountain National Park will include the details you need once you decide on a climb.

... John Bicknell, Colorado Mountain School

Alexander's Chimney, The Notch, Long's Peak

Alexander's Chimney/The Notch, Long's Peak, IV, AI4, 5.5: I had to include at least one classic ice climb of the many to be found in the Park. When in condition, climb thin ice and mixed terrain up the lower east face of Long's through the feature known as Alexander's Chimney,... [more]

The Diamond, Long's Peak

The Diamond, Long's Peak, IV- VI, 5.10-5.13: Over thirty routes, most superb, ascend the Diamond, the great 1000 vertical to overhanging wall which rises above Broadway at 13,100. Extremely visible from Estes Park, this is our El Cap and Half Dome transported to a high alpine setting, one of the... [more]

South Face, Petit Grepon

South Face, Petit Grepon, III, 5.8: Three routes in RMNP are included in Steck-Roper's Fifty Classic Climbs in North America. As mentioned, there are better routes on Hallet's than Northcutt-Carter. There are better routes on the Diamond than D1. This, the Petit South Face, is the uncontested classic, and one... [more]

Culp-Bossier, Hallet's Peak

Culp-Bossier, Hallet's Peak, III, 5.8: The Northcutt-Carter (III, 5.7) on Hallet's has more history and is included in Steck-Roper's Fifty Classic Climbs in North America. It receives the most traffic. The Northcutt-Carter also may well have gotten more climbers lost than any other route in Colorado. Counting the number of... [more]

Lumpy Ridge

Some of the best rock climbing is not in the high peaks. Lumpy Ridge is home to the best granite rock climbs in the state. It is my favorite climbing area and there are hundreds of superb climbs. Most of the climbs are three to six pitches long, and the... [more]

Pear Buttress, the Book

Pear Buttress, 5.8+, The Book: A 500' climb smack in the center of the Book, Lumpy's most popular crag. If you miss the exact line, do not worry. Almost every climb in the vicinity rates and deserves three stars. ...By John Bicknell, Colorado Mountain School... [more]

Mainliner, Sundance Buttress, Lumpy ridge

Mainliner, 5.9-, Sundance Buttress: Sundance is the big stone of Lumpy, views from the 800' South Face provides a beautiful panorama of both the High Peaks and the Estes Valley. Great lines on Sundance range from Kor's Flake at 5.7+ to an abundance of quality 5.10's and 5.11's. None is... [more]

Kiener's, Long's Peak

Kiener's, Long's Peak, III, 5.3, AI2: Possibly the best mountaineering route in the country. The route climbs the Mill's Glacier, moderate snow or ice on Lamb's Slide, traverses the Broadway ledges for a 1000', then winds its way along the left side of the Diamond with tremendous exposure for another... [more]

Spiral Route, Notchtop

Spiral Route, Notchtop, III, 5.4: This one will test your route finding skills as it winds all the way around the peak. Assuming you stay on route, the climb involves moderate movement on excellent rock with superb position and views. If you're up to it, some feel Notchtop's South Face... [more]

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