Some of the best rock climbing is not in the high peaks. Lumpy Ridge is home to the best granite rock climbs in the state.
It is my favorite climbing area and there are hundreds of superb climbs. Most of the climbs are three to six pitches long, and the view from the tops of any of them are alone worth the climb.
Mainliner, 5.9-, Sundance Buttress: Sundance is the big stone of Lumpy, views from the 800' South Face provide a beautiful panorama of both the High Peaks and the Estes Valley.
Great lines on Sundance range from Kor's Flake at 5.7+ to an abundance of quality 5.10's and 5.11's. None is higher quality or more popular than Mainliner, a superb six pitch route.
Pear Buttress, 5.8+, The Book: A 500' climb smack in the center of the Book, Lumpy's most popular crag. If you miss the exact line, do not worry. Almost every climb in the vicinity rates and deserves three stars.
...By John Bicknell, Colorado Mountain School